2003 Krug "Clos du Mesnil" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne

Clos du Mesnil is often severe and unapproachable on release, needing additional age to show its grandeur. In the heat of 2003, the discipline this walled parcel of limestone brings to chardonnay is still apparent, even as the wine is just that much more accessible. The pale earthen power of the wine, the challenging grip, is completely saturated by gracious, sophisticated flavor, remarkably tight for the vintage, and extremely long.