2013 Martinelli "Lolita Ranch" Russian River Valley Chardonnay

The 2013 Chardonnay Lolita Ranch has lovely depth and phenolic intensity, especially through the middle, where the wine is quite creamy and expansive as it continues to flesh out with air. Yellow orchard fruit, wild flowers, chamomile and sweet spices are laced into the finish. This is an unusually subdued, calm Chardonnay for Martinelli. I always look forward to my tastings at Martinelli. The entire family gathers around a long rectangular table to show their latest releases. This year, the 2014 Pinots are the most impressive wines in the range. Martinelli fans will not want to miss the new Wild Thyme Pinot. The 2013 Chards are a bit subdued, both by Martinelli standards and within the context of the vintage. Perhaps I caught those wines at an awkward stage. The Syrahs are attractive, although in 2013 the flavor profile leans more towards the red end of the spectrum, which is unusual here. The Martinellis are probably best known for their Zinfandel. The new collection of current releases delivers the goods. As always, the Martinellis like to harvest ripe, which to them means that fruit has to begin to show some dimpling. The wines are rich, powerful, and, at their best, deeply satisfying. (AG)