2013 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Ducs"

The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has that citrus-like freshness; that Seville orange marmalade trait that was tangible in a range of mature Clos des Ducs tasted the previous week. There are touches of violet that emerge with continued aeration. The palate is very feminine and refined, laid back almost, but that distracts from the structure underneath and the persistence and minerality on the finish. This is a regal, perhaps one should say, "ducal," Clos des Ducs that should drink beautifully over the next 25-30 years. But as I discovered at the vertical, this vineyard needs several years in the cellar. This year I spent a little more time at Marquis d‰۪Angerville. Having participated in an epochal vertical of Guillaume d‰۪Angerville‰۪s Clos des Ducs monopole in London the week before, I made sure to spend time walking around the vineyard. It is amazing what 20 minutes of promenading around the vines can do for your perspective and insight (readers can read the results in a separate article in this issue.) (NM)