2012 L̩oville-Poyferr̩, St-Julien

A solid, muscular version, with a slightly chewy feel along the edges, while the core of steeped plum, anise and blackberry paste waits in reserve. Reveals ample graphite details on the finish, with a warm fruitcake note chiming in. Just needs some cellaring to lose the burly edge. (JM)