2011 Fekete B̩la Juhfark SomlÌ_

One of the last vintages for Fekete B̩la, who‰۪s approaching 90 years old, this is as striking as SomlÌ_ itself, a mound of volcanic soil rising out of the ocean that once covered it. The wine is monolithic, a liquid stone, the acidity carving deep and fast channels through that stony flavor. There‰۪s really no fruit to speak of; instead, there‰۪s earth, deep, profound and lasting. Decant before serving, and have something rich on hand, like smoked fish.