2004 Bollinger "La Grande Ann̩e" Ros̩ Champagne

Barrel fermentation gives this wine ornate complexity, while its crisp structural lines make it feel very contemporary French. The plump red fruit races with dynamism, extending the suppleness of the texture into more dramatic territory than where Champagne often ventures, and lasts with a gentler, floral grace. A youthful ten-year-old wine, this is built for long development in the cellar.