1998 Les Cailloux "Cuv̩e Centenaire" Ch̢teauneuf-du-Pape

Dark, brooding aromas of fig compote and a spiced Port reduction unfurl from the glass, leading to a rich, velvety palate that shows notes of plum sauce, braised chestnut, macerated boysenberry, bittersweet chocolate ganache and dark rum-soaked prune. There's powerful structure, but the layers of exotic fruit just absorb it all. A very impressive showing. (JM)