1996 Tertre Roteboeuf, St-Emilion

The 1996 Le Tertre-Roteboeuf is less sumptuous out of bottle than it was from cask. Nevertheless, this is an outstanding wine produced in the tell-tale style of this well-placed hillside vineyard. The color is a deep ruby, and the nose offers up hedonistic notes of smoky, creme brulee, roasted coffee, and chocolate-covered cherries. This medium-bodied wine is exhibiting more structure, muscle, and tannin than I remember from cask. In fact, after the sweet aromatics and initial blast of fruit on the attack, the wine seems to close down, revealing moderate tannin in the very good finish. (RP)