1996 Fr̩d̩ric Magnien Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru "Reserve"

This slightly light-colored wine exhibits super-ripe plum aromas and a chewy-textured, thick, and full-bodied core of cooked and baked fruits. While I generally find the latter characteristic to be a negative, Magnien (and the vintage's high acidity) somehow harmoniously married it with structure, freshness, and focus. Layers of stewed cherries, figs, plums, minerals, and stones can be found in this exceedingly long and admirable wine. (PR)