1988 Guiraud, Sauternes

More tight and backward than I remembered it, the 1988 exhibits a stylish, spicy nose of ripe fruit, some botrytis, medium to full-bodied flavors with well-integrated oak, an attractive, smoky, honeyed fruit character, and a lively finish. It is more shy and reticent than usual. Look for the 1988 to last for 20-30 years. It represents a more understated style of wine than the more ostentatious 1990. (RP)